Project tutorial
Christmas Card PCB

Christmas Card PCB © GPL3+

Etch a PCB card you'll enjoy making with only electronic glitter involved! And it's a great way to use up those spares....

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Components and supplies

A000066 iso both
Arduino UNO & Genuino UNO
×1
12002 04
Breadboard (generic)
×1
11026 02
Jumper wires (generic)
×1
Attiny85
Microchip Technology ATtiny85
×1
SMT LEDs
×1
SMT Resistors 100 Ohm
×1
SMT Resistors 22Ohm
×1
SMT Resistors 3KOhm
×1
Copper Clad Board
×1

Necessary tools and machines

3drag
3D Printer (generic)
2.5W UV Laser
PCB Etchant (Ferric Chloride)
Acetone
Matt Black Paint
09507 01
Soldering iron (generic)
4966285
Solder Wire, Lead Free

Apps and online services

About this project

This year we fancied some cards with a difference, but wanted to keep the software simple, well for now.....

So with the spare copper clad boards, an ATtiny and some LEDs we have the start of some shiny cards with lights, though by the time this was finished we wanted to add a few more features... Easter should be interesting!

Gathering the Parts

The Uno + breadboard + jumper wires are needed to program the ATtiny85 IC shown below....

Designing the Board

First we need to have an image we want to etch onto the front of the card, which can be in any image format.

Then we open it in Inkscape, resize to the final dimensions of our copper board, and use the 305Laser Engineering tool to convert this into GCODE for our printer, which will give a 1:1 representation of the image.

We run our laser at full power and a speed of 50mm/min which is slow but seems reliable for us.

Now we need to design our circuit, remembering the LEDs need to be behind an etched area. Once designed it can be exported as gerbers, and converted to an image, reversed, and converted to GCODE in the same way as above.

Now we should be ready to etch...

Etching

As always be careful when handling the chemicals for etching and any laser equipment in use!!

We add our resist using a layer of black matt paint, and a 2.5W UV Laser fitted to our 3D Printer.

Once the paint is burned away you should have a board as below, our paint appears silver where it has been burned.

Now give it a good scrub with a toothbrush for example, and a little washing up liquid seems to help...

Then etch with your etching solution of choice, as directed... and dont forget the rubber gloves, ventilation and goggles!!

We find periodically taking the board from the etching solution and scrubbing gently with a toothbrush works well to remove any paint not ablated fully by the laser or cleaning process.

Hopefullyitshouldthenlook more like this:

So the final clean with some Acetone to remove all the paint should reveal a good looking front to our board, even without any lights!

Soldering

We used SMT components for this so we had no holes, and as always this is quite fiddly, but means we don't affect the front copper with drill holes etc...

NOTE - Check your LED orientation with a voltmeter using the Diode setting if not clearly marked (and it can be difficult to be clear on such a small package):

We used 100Ohm for yellow and red LEDs, and 22Ohm resistors for our green and blue LEDs, as we don't want them burning out before New Year!

Suit these to your specific LEDs, and you can there are many online LED Resistor Calcualtors which can assist in working these out.

Coding

Now we can whip up any code we want for our lights.... there may be a pattern you want to flash, or other peripherals you have added (sound sensors, light sensors) which could change how it works... it all depends on the design you have on the front really, and of course who you expect to receive it!

We built our code in Visual Micro to simply perform a random pattern, at random intervals.. simple but effective for the purposes here.

Install any Cores needed for your target chip in use (ours is the versatile ATtiny85).

Open another instance of Visual Studio for your ArduinoISP project to run in.

This can be opened from the Examples installed with the core, as shown below:

Upload this to your Uno at this point, before wiring it to your ATtiny.

More about the Arduino As ISP can be found here

Uploading to the Chip

Now we have our programmer built, we can finally upload our code to the chip.

First we need to put our ATtiny in a breadboard, and wire it to our Uno:

Here we need to select the relevant chip, and ensure we have selected the correct programmer option, for us the ArduinoISP:

Now we can press Build & Upload and your code should upload to the chip.

Fit the Chip and Power Up

Solder or push the chip into the board if you used a header, and we can finally get the power turned on and see how it looks with the lights on!

So there we have it, a Christmas card that you can customise in so many ways, and when you get it back in the new year, you can upgrade it, so economical too!

Code

ChristmasCard.inoArduino
Basic code for our ATTiny85 to randomly flash our lights.
/*
 Name:		ChristmasCard.ino
 Author:	vMicro
 Simple Sketch to randomly flash lights on our ATTiny85 IC
*/

#define RED_LEDS PB3
#define YEL_LEDS PB1
#define BLU_LEDS PB2
#define GRN_LED1 PB0
#define GRN_LED2 PB4

void setup() {
	pinMode(RED_LEDS, OUTPUT);
	pinMode(YEL_LEDS, OUTPUT);
	pinMode(BLU_LEDS, OUTPUT);
	pinMode(GRN_LED1, OUTPUT);
	pinMode(GRN_LED2, OUTPUT);
	randomSeed(micros() % 10000);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again until power down or reset
void loop() {
	// Run Random
	digitalWrite(RED_LEDS, random() % 2);
	delay(random(10, 100));
	digitalWrite(YEL_LEDS, random() % 2);
	delay(random(10, 100));
	digitalWrite(BLU_LEDS, random() % 2);
	delay(random(10, 100));
	digitalWrite(GRN_LED1, random() % 2);
	delay(random(10, 100));
	digitalWrite(GRN_LED2, random() % 2);
	delay(random(500, 1200));
}

Custom parts and enclosures

All CAD Files
Free PCB File, PCB Image, Initial Images, Generated GCode with alterations for speed.
pcbcrimbocard_csDna7Hvr2.zip

Schematics

PCB Layout for Back of Card
Just an image, see ZIP for FPC/Gerber files and all images
Crimbopcblayout qkmkbbjbm6

Comments

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