Public projects 2

Vase Dazzler (Great for Lithophanes Too)

Project tutorial by vorpalrobotics

  • 14 respects

Vorpal the Hexapod

Project showcase by Vorpal Robotics, LLC

  • 84 respects

Toolbox 3

Replicated projects 0

 vorpalrobotics hasn't replicated any projects yet.

Respected projects 3

JQR Quadruped Autonomous Robot

Project in progress by aldoz

  • 43 respects

3D Printer Fire Safety

Project tutorial by Miles Nash

  • 35 respects

Arduino-Powered Smart Light (Works with Amazon Echo)

Project tutorial by Tinker Project

  • 27 respects

  • 3D Printer Fire Safety 3 months ago

    I just bought an off the shelf first alert smoke detector with one of their relay units. The relay provides two outputs: one provides power when no smoke is detected, the other when smoke is detected. It was quite easy to take a 20 foot extension cord and wire this up (a few wire nuts and some electrical tape required, slit the center of the extension cord, tap off power to the smoke detector and from there to relay, then output of relay "power when no smoke detected" goes out to female end of the extension cord). You plug one end into the wall, the other end into the 3d printer. When smoke is detected, boom it turns off the printer.

    This was really just a 20 minute project and cost about $50. I'm designing a 3d printed box to house the relay, provide stress relief for the power cord, and make this easier to mount to my wall right above the printers.

  • 3D Printer Fire Safety 4 months ago

    Nice project! An obvious and very cool upgrade would be to use an ESP8266 module to send an email or text alert over the internet if smoke is detected. That way if you're not in your workshop and too far away to hear the alarm you will be notified wherever you are.

    If you want to take it even further ... a servo could trigger release of fire suppressant foam if cutting the power fails to clear the problem. Or perhaps you'd add a temperature sensor or infrared flame sensor so that you only release foam if you actually detect open flames and not just smoke. You don't want a false alarm foaming up the printer.

    Truthfully I could see you developing this further and doing a kickstarter or indiegogo project that would be very successful. There are a LOT of 3d printer projects on those sites and therefore a lot of backers who would take a look. You'd have to take it up a couple more levels of sophistication like the wifi or foam ideas, but you're on the right track with this prototype. Along the way you would learn a lot about manufacturing PCBs (see for a cheap way to get them in prototype quantities), creating a product, and running a business.

    Just because you're in high school, don't think that you can't do something like this! Summer is almost here and you can use that time to do something awesome.

  • Vorpal the Hexapod 6 months ago

    The servo size the project expects is MG90 size. Tower Pro MG90S work very well, as do Turnigy MG90S from Hobby King.

    Don't use SG90, the plastic gears can't take the stress of walking. (also the shaft spacing is different so you'd have to adjust the 3d models a bit).

    Clone/counterfeit Tower Pro MG90S are all over the cheap electronics places (and even amazon/ebay etc). If you see any price under about $6 for something claiming to be a tower pro mg90, then it's very likely to be counterfeit. If you see a price under $3 it is absolutely counterfeit, because even in large quantities real TP MG90S servos cost nearly $4 wholesale.

    We used to use clone MG90S in our projects, but we would test every one and reject the 10% that were bad. However, recently the factories in china have been churning out batches of clones with sometimes 50% bad servos so we stopped using them and switched to real tower pro servos. If you want to buy those clone/counterfeit servos for $2 or $3, buy a bunch of extras because you're likely to have a good percentage of bad ones. A lot of them have bad gearboxes that will fail within minutes of using. Many of them recently will lose their home position after heating up, the shaft will drift 30 to 90 degrees from proper position.

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